melissa + honduras

 
 
I am sitting on the back stoop of our house, hoping we'll have running water soon ...  and by running water I mean water that will be literally running off of our roof and into the basins we have set out to collect the rain ;)  Talanga seems to have somewhat regular water pressure problems - sometimes on our designated water days the water will only trickle out of the faucet or won't turn on until late in the day or it'll be straight up brown water and won't be enough to last until the next time comes (3 - 4 days later).  When we absolutely run out, usually we just load up the truck with two basins and drive to a junkyard where they sell water.  I don't know what families without trucks (a.k.a. the majority) do when this happens.  Until now, I've never really thought twice about the luxury that in my U.S. home, water comes 24/7 and that even the water in the washing machine and toilet is drinking quality.

Our back stoop is walled off from the street but is not a quiet or separated place, right now I'm listening to the totally unfamiliar sounds (well previously unfamiliar to me, except for these past six weeks since I've arrived) of people speaking in tongues.  Two of our immediate neighbors are Evangelical Christian churches and the celebrations throughout the week last for hours.  In terms of religious belief here in Honduras, a Christian perspective on the world seems almost universal.  I help a few mornings a week at a public school a few blocks away and Profesora was explaining to her second grade yesterday that "there is a great diversity of religions here in Honduras, for example, Catholics, Jehovah's Witnessness, Seventh-Day Adventists, Pentecostals, Mormons, Baptists and ... some of you may have heard of these people ... Jews."

When walking down the main street of Talanga, you'll most likely see public buses (yellow relics of school districts from across the U.S. that no longer meet emissions requirements) painted across the backside with phrases like "PROPIEDAD DE CRISTO."  Many homes and businesses are decorated with an assortment of posters of the Virgin Mary, Bible quotes, and Crucifixes.  My sense so far is that the prevalence of religious references in public has to do with a blend of cultural tradition, heartfelt belief, and ... trying to prevent crime through guilt.  I think grocery store management was thinking about the latter more than anything else when they plastered the huge sticker of Christ emblazoned with the words "NO MATARÁS" (Thou shalt not kill) on the cash register.  Also, I've been informed that if anyone feels like sending me a package, it helps to paste some pictures Jesus on the box to ward off potential mail "inspectors."

There are also a few phrases Hondurans use often (and I remember Salvadorans using them too) that incorporate belief into everyday conversation.  It was startling at first to hear such overt religious references casually, like "Si Díos quiere" (God willing) or "Si Díos lo permita" (If God allows it).  Even though I can recall people in the U.S. mentioning God's will, it seems like they are always in reference to big unknowns, like terminal illnesses, natural disasters, and presidential elections but here the sentiment pops up casually and often, i.e.

Me: See you later this afternoon!

Honduran co-worker: Si Díos lo permita ...

My first thought is ... that´s crazy ... can't we I at least take for granted the few hours between now and this afternoon when we have our meeting? I'll see you soon.  If God allows it.  The phrases are more than just conversation niceties or kitschy superstition though; actually they seem to suggest a way of looking at things that packs a lot of gratitude and very little entitlement at the same time.

I think that sometimes in my life in many parts of Los United, it's easier to assume that my plans trump those of the universe and that I'm in charge of my own life - it's almost never that I'm challenged on those assumptions.  I'm an individual and I've earned what I have.  For so many of the families we work with, it's not a given that things that are necessary to make a life - like work and food and open beds in the one public hospital in Tegucigalpa - are available.  How is it that I have those things through the [gift, luck, rigged system ...] of my family?  More and more as I have waded through both the incredible heaviness and the unexpected joys here in this community, a phrase like God willing seems like a truthful reflection of the big-ness, the interconnected-ness, the mysterious-ness of life. 

 
We are cooking catrachas in the house tonight.  Catracho is colloquial/slang meaning Honduran … kind of like Yankee for a Northerner (but without any negative connotations) … and is also the name for a delicious Honduran dish of deep-fried tortilla topped with refried beans and two kinds of home-made cheese.  Catrachas notwithstanding, health (read: fresh) food is a lot cheaper than processed food in Honduras (why is it often the opposite in the States?) and now that I’ve learned how to enter the market without being completely overwhelmed, I can usually can make it out with bundles and bundles of vegetables (enough for the whole house) for under $5. 

Cooking is more labor-intensive, for example the beans we eat almost every day first need to be sorted (a.k.a. pick out the rocks and rinse off the dirt) and then boiled for 2 + hours.  Dishes are something else entirely, but cooking is fun and the process also reassures me that I can survive in a post-microwave world.  About once a month, we go to Tegus to do immigration paperwork and we also have the chance to go to the big capitalist grocery store(owned by Sam’s Club) to buy American staples like peanut butter and wheat bread. 


Tomorrow Andrew and I head to Casa Pasionista, a home for persons living with HIV/AIDS.  While Casa is considered a hospice, a lot of the patients recuperate enough over the course of their stay to return home to live with their families. 
USAID reports that Honduras has the highest HIV infection rate in all of Central America ... Honduras accounts for 17% of the population in Central America, but 60% of the reported HIV infections in the region.

Casa began about ten years ago through the sponsorship of the Passionists and currently about ten people are living and receiving free medical care at Casa.  We volunteers are not involved in the treatment aspect, but just take the day to spend time with the people living there.  The house is beautiful … the rooms are built in a rectangle surrounding a little garden in the center so a breeze is always flowing.  Casa was originally located in Tegus but was moved a number of years ago after some encounters with hostile neighbors to its current location on the grounds of Nuestros Pequenos Hermanos.   NPH is a network of orphanages throughout Latin America andNPH in Honduras is on a huge ranch where about 400 children from birth to mid-twenties (kids can stay until they finish college if they want) live.  It´s amazing because the farm on the ranch produces almost all of the food needed. 

Over the weekend, we all drove up to Majada Verde, where the water project will be.  I’ve nabbed some photos from Jean and added them to the page on the project.  Sending lots of love as always!
 
Days go by here a todo mecate (a.k.a. really fast).  It's been three weeks and three days since I arrived in Talanga, a super friendly town about one hour driving distance north of the Honduran capital, Tegucigalpa.  Rosi, Chanel, Andrew, Molly, Brooke and I are the volunteers this year and we have so much to learn about the community but so far have had a lot of fun just beginning to dig in. 

Driving for one is always an adventure.  It might be more accurate if I call it pothole and ditch diving instead of driving, because, between the six of us acclimating to the automatic transmission truck, we spend a significant amount of our 'driving' time exploring the potholes and ditches all over the Talangan streets.  A few days ago some local oxen played the role of tow-truck to get us through a flooded road.

Besides oxen forging the river (a la Oregon Trail), there's been a lot of other firsts for me.  I attended the wedding of a friend of a friend and it was my first ever experience of the bride processing down the church aisle almost completely in the dark.  Often it rains so hard that the electricity goes out in the whole town and this was one of those nights ... but who wants to see the bride anyway?  Luckily the rain stopped and lights were back on in time for vows and stayed on the rest of the night so we could eat cake and dance all night to Shakira and Justin Bieber.

There are two new members in our house community, thanks to an impulse buy on our way to a meeting last Tuesday morning.  Peach and Fitzpatrick cost a total of 10 Lempira (50 cents) and are just as cute as you could imagine two little pollitos to be. 

They are excellent company, except for the fact that they'd just as soon poop on you as snuggle up in your palms, two things they do almost constantly and sometimes simultaneously.  They grow so fast that we spot new feathers every day.  Our neighbors tell us that F and P have made it out of the woods since they've survived the first week.  Everyone is uniformly impressed that the chickies didn't perish at the hands of us city kids.

Besides farm animals, we have some wonderful and generous people neighbors here.  Don Chico runs the corner store where we buy eggs and milk.  He hosts an informal show on the local TV station every Tuesday and yesterday night we all got to be introduced on the show.  I wish I could get some of that footage because, well, probably the first and last time I get interviewed 1) in Spanish and 2) on TV.

I am still getting used to the water system here.  Water comes to our house on most Fridays and Mondays.  Most homes in Honduras,  including ours, have a cement basin (called a pila) in the yard to store enough water (or almost enough ... we're still learning how to conserve) for the rest of the days in the week.  Other neighborhoods receive water less than once a week and many rural ones do not at all, but because we live near the town proper we are lucky enough to have two days.  Even in major cities water is still an issue.  Recently in Tegucigalpa water sources that served one barrio were literally confiscated and redirected to a new upper-class housing development in the city ... leaving the original community with no water at all.  That some communities have privileges at the expense of others having nothing is as common a reality here in Honduras as it is all over the world, though it seems that we're less likely to admit to the basic power dynamic that justifies the trade-off in the U.S.

We are all super excited about the possibility of facilitating the construction a water system (tank, pump, water lines) in a rural community of about 135 families who as of now lack potable water.  It'll be a couple of months before we hear back about grant applications for funding, but that the project is feasible (for the equivalent of $30,000 U.S. dollars) totally astounds me.  Ángel, an engineer who lives here in Talanga and has worked on constructing water systems in the past, has been super helpful laying out the plans and guiding the project.   Last Saturday, we trekked up the mountain with Ángel to organize a junta directiva (direction committee) of community members to share oversight of the project.

I just uploaded a video of some of the kids who eat every day in the Comedor  (lunchroom) that was started by the fabulous group of volunteers from this past year.  Community members originally suggested the idea of a food program to Nina, Pati, Rosalina, Carolina and Jean ('09-'10 volunteers) and they followed up by going to the city dump every day to get to know the kids who were there looking for food there.  Now about ten months after Comedor opened its doors, 32 kids are enrolled in the program and self-sufficiency is well on the way: moms of enrolled kids take turns cooking meals throughout the week, we've hired a kitchen coordinator and part-time social worker, and the vast majority of food donations come from generous business owners here in Talanga.

 I can't wait to write more but the rain also cuts off the internet and so I keep losing pages.  I miss and love you people reading this and I hope you leave comments and send emails whenever you can.

Picture
Fitzpatrick ... possibly Peach :)